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  • 21 Aug, 2019

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Mousaylaha
The Mseilha Fort (Arabic: قلعة المسيلحة, romanized: Qal'at al-Msaylḥa) is a fortification situated north of the city of Batroun in Lebanon. The current fort was built by Emir Fakhreddine II in the 17th century to guard the route from Tripoli to Beirut. The fort is built on a long, narrow limestone rock near the Nahr el-Jaouz River. Its walls are constructed with small sandstone blocks quarried from the nearby coast and built onto the edge of the limestone rock. The thickness of the walls ranges from 1.5 to 2 meters (4 to 6.5 feet). The larger limestone blocks are the only remains of an earlier structure probably built for the same defensive reason.

Location

The Mseilha Fort stands on the right bank of Al-Jaouz river, to the south-east of Ras ash-Shaq'a promontory; a massive geological formation that cuts through the coast of Lebanon, making it historically difficult for travelers to circumvent. The fort is located within the municipal area of Hamat, 2.5 km (1.6 mi) northeast of Batroun, and is strategically located to control the crossing of the Al-Jaouz river and the pathways that climb the valley slopes or bypass the promontory.

Names and Etymology

Mseilha, derives from the Arabic word for "fortified place," being a diminutive form of musallaha (Arabic: مسلحة), meaning "fortified". An alternative romanization is: Qal'at al Mouseiliha, Musayliha, and Museiliha.

History

Strategic importance and early defenses

Mseilha Fort and medieval bridge.

Following the collapse of the Ras ash-Shaq'a promontory in the aftermath of the 551 CE earthquake, the coastal road linking the cities of Batroun, El-Heri and Tripoli completely disappeared, transforming the northern shoreline into a high sea cliff. Consequently, a new road bypassing the promontory from the east was necessary to ensure communication between Batroun and the North. Crossing the Nahr el-Jaouz valley, this road turns around Ras ash-Shaq'a promontory to reach the other side at a spot near El-Heri called Bab el-Hawa (meaning the "door of the wind"). During the Crusades, the prominent land mass of Ras ash-Shaq'a held significant strategic value in the defense of the County of Tripoli. It guarded one of the region's most perilous road segments and overlooked the Bay of Heri, a coastal area well-suited for maritime landings. Due to its strategic importance, Ras ash-Shaq'a was designated as a separate lordship, distinct from the nearby fiefs of Nephin to the north and Boutron to the south. This territory was granted as a fief to the Constable of Tripoli, and there was likely a direct connection between holding the fortification of the fief and the office of constable.

Twelfth century historian of the First Crusade, Albert of Aix described the strategic position of the defensive fortification that then existed atop the Ras ash-Shaq'a promontory to guard a narrow pass:

This mountain, detached from the more distant mountain chain, extends over a vast area of land all the way to the sea. A tower that dominates and controls the route through one of its gates rises at the summit of this mountain. This small structure can hold no more than six men, but these few would be enough to defend the pass against all who live under the sky.

During the two centuries of Frankish occupation that followed, the Crusader Counts of Tripoli fortified Ras ash-Shaq'a, referring to the estate as "Puy du Connétable" (Hill of the Constable), "Puy Guillaume:, and the mountain pass as "Passe Saint-Guillaume", all of which, according to Goepp likely also refer to the Mseilha fort. In a 1109 document, Bertrand, Count of Saint-Gilles, gifted the Church of St. Lawrence of Genoa full control over the Castle of the Constabulary (Latin: Castrum Constabularii) Gibellum, and one-third of Tripoli's territory. This lordship would be maintained until 1278, with the lords of Le Puy appearing as constables of the County up to that date. Around 1276, the vicinity of the Puy du Connétable was the site of a battle during the war between Guy II Embriaco of Gibelet and the Knights Templar against Bohemond VII, Count of Tripoli.

seaside cliff with sea
Picture of the Ras ash-Shaq'a promontory viewed from al-Heri (1920)

Connection to the Puy du Connétable

The exact location of the Puy du Connétable remains uncertain, historians like Emmanuel-Guillaume Rey (1837-1916), and Henri Lammens (1862–1937), suggest that the Puy likely referred to the estate located north of the promontory in al-Heri, or to a previous structure at the location of the Mseilha Fort respectively. Scholars who studied the Mseilha Fort noted that while the rock on which the fort stands may have served as a military position in ancient times, the current fort structure does not include any elements from the Crusader era. The construction techniques, cutting methods, stone block sizes, and low arched doors and windows, among other elements, suggest that the current structure was built in the 17th century at the earliest. Nineteenth-century French historian Ernest Renan could not relate the architectural elements in Mseilha to anything earlier than the Middle Ages. Paul Deschamps, a 20th-century historian of Crusader architecture, confirmed the lack of any Crusader-era features in the current fort but did not rule out the possibility that it replaced earlier Crusader constructions, as surviving Frankish literature indicates the Crusaders had fortified the strategic pass between Ras ash-Shaq'a and the foothills of Mount Lebanon. Deschamps further posits, that the tower described by Albert of Aix during the march of the First Crusade in 1099 may have been located on the Mseilha rock, a theory echoed by French historians René Grousset and Jean Richard.

Modern scholars Davie and Salamé-Sarkis don't conflate the Puy du Connétable with the Mseilha Fort. According to them, the entire promontory of Ras ash-Shaq'a was known from 1109 to 1282 in Crusader-era texts as Puy du Connétable. The estate was defended by the Castrum Constabularii, as mentioned in Bertrand of Saint-Gilles' 1109 document, which likely replaced an earlier tower described by Albert of Aix. According to scholars Davie and Salamé-Sarkis, this tower may have been situated at the summit of Jabal an-Nuriyya, a strategic position on the northern tip of the promontory, that enabled monitoring of both the mountain pass and the Bay of Heri.

Historical mentions and construction

A lateral view of the Mseilha fort, Lebanon

French traveler Jean de La Roque (1661–1743) passed near the Mseilha Fort in late 1689 on his route from Tripoli to Batroun. He recorded a local account attributing the fort's construction to Emir Fakhr al-Din II, the Druze former ruler of Lebanon. Nineteenth century Lebanese scholar Father Mansur Tannus al-Hattuni (1823–1910), recounting events of 1624, noted that Emir Fakhr al-Din II "ordered Sheikh Abu Nadir al-Khazin to construct the Mseilha Fort north of Batroun". Hattuni's source, Tannus al-Shidyaq (1794–1861), mentions that the fort was built by Fakhr al-Din II and added in his account of 1631—six years after the fort's construction—that Abu Nadir al-Khazin conducted restoration work on the fort. The year 1624 is accepted as the date of the fort's construction, this date is further corroborated by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt (1784–1817), a Swiss traveler who visited the area in the early 19th century and confirmed that Mseilha Fort was of relatively recent origin. English traveler and clergyman Henry Maundrell (1665–1701), writing in 1697, referred to Mseilha Fort as 'Temseida,' likely a corruption of the local name due to Maundrell's limited familiarity with the language. He described it as a small fort perched upon a steep, perpendicular rock, with walls conforming to the rock's natural shape, commanding the passage into a narrow valley.

Image of a banknote with French writing
Reverse of the 1964 25 Lira banknote featuring the Mseilha Fort

Modern era

The Mseilha Fort was featured on the reverse of the 25 Lebanese Lira banknote issued between 1964 and 1983. In 2007, restoration works were undertaken to make the site safe for visitors. Funded by USAID, these works are a continuation of a project conducted by SRI International-INMA to rehabilitate the fort, in cooperation with the Lebanese Ministry of Tourism and the Ministry of Culture - Directorate General of Antiquities.

Architecture and description

The Mseilha fort is 15 m (49 ft) high, built on a narrow limestone rocky outcrop. Its walls range from 1.5 to 2 m (4.9 to 6.6 ft) in thickness, and were built with medium-sized sandstone blocks, although some larger limestone blocks are also present, likely repurposed from older structures. The fort was built in two phases, resulting in two adjoining sections that form a cohesive architectural unit. It is approached through a narrow, steep path on the northern side of the rock, which incorporates steps carved directly into the bedrock. This path leads to a small masonry terrace and a low, rounded-arch doorway. The entrance opens into a narrow, triangular courtyard bordered by a two-bay vaulted building on the southern side, possibly used for storage or as a cistern in its lower part. The curtain wall on the southern side rises approximately two meters higher than the northern wall, likely an intentional design to counterbalance the elevated mountain terrain to the south, which offers a natural strategic advantage controlling the entrance of the Nahr el-Jaouz valley. In the west tower, an archery chamber offers a vantage point with narrow arrow slits. The eastern section of the fort is more elevated and fortified, with a cluster of vaulted rooms surrounding a small inner courtyard. From this courtyard, a staircase leads to an upper level, where each room is similarly equipped with arrow slits for defense. At the easternmost tip, a square tower juts forward.


  • Van Berchem's sketches of the Mseilha Fort (1914)
  • The fort as seen from the North
    The fort as seen from the North
  • East view of the fort
    East view of the fort
  • Ground floor plan
    Ground floor plan
  • Partial upper floor plan
    Partial upper floor plan
  • Cross section view of the fort
    Cross section view of the fort
  • Main gate of the fort
    Main gate of the fort
  • West tower
    West tower

See also

Notes

  1. ^ The agreement read:

    1109, June 26, indiction II. — Bertrand, Count of Saint-Gilles, in the presence of Baldwin I, King of Jerusalem, grants to the Church of St. Lawrence of Genoa, through the hands of William Embriaco, Oberto Ussumaris, Ingo Pedegola, Ansald Caput de Burgo, the entirety of Gibellum with its appurtenances, the Castle of the Constabulary, and also a third part of Tripoli from one sea up to another, as defined by the king's standard. Furthermore, it is promised to protect the islands of the city itself and the port, as well as their commerce and freedoms.
  2. ^ Misinterpreted as "Obreh" in Rey
  3. ^ Abi Nadir al-Khazin was a muqaddam (tax collector), and key supporter and adjutant of Emir Fakhr al-Din II Ma'n. He held significant influence under Fakhr al-Din's rule, being tasked multiple times (in 1616, 1617, 1618, and 1621) with collecting taxes in the regions of Kisrawan, Jbeil, Batroun, and Jebbet Bsharri. In 1617, he was granted the tax farm of Kisrawan as an inheritable holding.

References

Citations

  1. ^ Lebanese Ministry of Culture 2004.
  2. ^ Davie & Salamé-Sarkis 1990, p. 5.
  3. ^ Asharq Al-Awsat editorial staff 2007.
  4. ^ Berchem & Fatio 1914, p. 115.
  5. ^ Deschamps 1973, p. 10.
  6. ^ Renan 1864, p. 148.
  7. ^ Davie & Salamé-Sarkis 1990, pp. 23–27.
  8. ^ Davie & Salamé-Sarkis 1990, pp. 31–32.
  9. ^ Richard 1945, pp. 49–50.
  10. ^ Goepp 2004.
  11. ^ Albert of Aix 1824, p. 307.
  12. ^ Röhricht 1893, p. 11, doc 55.
  13. ^ Grousset 1936, pp. 687–688.
  14. ^ Rey 1883, p. 371.
  15. ^ Lammens 1906, pp. 268–270.
  16. ^ Davie & Salamé-Sarkis 1990, p. 32.
  17. ^ Grousset 1934, p. 142.
  18. ^ Richard 1948, p. 56.
  19. ^ Röhricht 1893, p. 100, doc 1444.
  20. ^ van Leeuwen 1994, p. 82.
  21. ^ al-Ḥattūni 1884, p. 76.
  22. ^ Al-Shidyāq 1859, pp. 85, 326–329.
  23. ^ Maundrell 1740, p. 33.
  24. ^ Numista 2007.
  25. ^ Makarem 2007.
  26. ^ Berchem & Fatio 1914, p. 114.

Sources

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